Unabashedly kitsch, Dalat tends to either charm or repulse. The town’s penchant for Disneylandesque attractions leaves many scratching their head. For others however, the stunning rural scenery, cool climate and somewhat avant-garde student scene more than compensate for the undeniably appalling taste displayed across Dalat, the capital of Vietnam’s Lam Dong province
The town was established in 1897 after explorers decided it would make a fine resort centre. At the time, the region formed a part of French Cochinchina and offered an ideal escape from the steaming delta plains of Saigon. With an altitude of 1,500m, an average temperature of just 17 degrees Celsius and dawns often bathed in early-morning mist, it’s easy to see what lured the early explorers, including bacteriologist Alexandre Yersin, whose name you’ll see adorning street signs across Vietnam.
The first hotels appeared in the early 20th century and within a relatively short span of time the colonialists endowed the city with a wealth of villas and boulevards — many of which remain today. By the 1930s an estimated 20% of the population was French. By the middle of the 20th century there were boarding schools, seminaries and military colleges and throughout World War II, Dalat was the capital of the Federation of Indochina.
The province of Lam Dong was once rich in wildlife and Dalat was for a while the epicentre of Vietnam’s hunting “scene”. This popularity nicely blended with the Vietnamese penchant for flaunting one’s possessions — for a long time some of the tattier taxidermied creatures littered the walls of many an establishment — though thankfully they’re all long gone.
Aside from turning the area into one great game park, locals took advantage of the region’s fertile soils and today Lam Dong province is one of Vietnam’s top-performing agricultural provinces. Dalat fresh produce — especially its tomatoes and strawberries — can be found as far afield as Phnom Penh and even Bangkok. There’s also a burgeoning coffee and tea trade (though we think the Buon Ma Thuot blends are better) and a massive trade in cut flowers. A nascent wine-making industry is slowly developing - while the best grape-growing areas can be found in nearby Binh Thuan and Ninh Thuan, a French-Vietnamese facility with an annual capacity of some one million litres was opened in Dalat in early 2007.
Outside Dalat town you’ll find individual villages specialising in the cultivation of this or that — often giving you the opportunity to find out just how mushrooms or strawberries are grown and harvested. All this makes for scenic sightseeing and the central market, with its wealth of berries, fruits and flowers, is unlike any other in the region.
GETTING THERE
Most local and foreign travelers arrive in Dalat by bus, particularly on the famous Sinh Cafe Hanoi-HCMC bus route. From Nha Trang, the bus ride is about 5 hours, with the obligatory stop at a dilapidated Cham temple/tourist site. From Ho Chi Minh City, the bus ride is about 6-7 hours.
There are various travel agencies in the town that can book buses to all parts of the country.
The airport, 30 km south of the city, has daily Vietnam Airlines flights to HCMC and Hanoi.
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